Sitting in what Jorges called a public park, I came to understand that I was going to need thicker sandals. I got these in Paris last year, before they were cool.

Jorges said he used to play here barefoot. I made a note in my calendar: get tetanus shot. Also: learn how to spell tetanus.

We are resting now. The ride here was physical agony and Jorges complained incessantly. He told me it was his way of achieving enlightenment, but he didn’t mean it.